The Shanties of Soweto

As with all great trips that you can't hawk your ride at the end, this one had to turn circular. We left Swaziland and headed north toward Johannesburg. We arrived early intent on spending the day exploring the Soweto section of town before Bodds and Kulsum had evening flights. I would get to spend an extra day for some solo exploration. I was very excited for that.

Our return plan was imprecise:

Step 1: Find Soweto on a Map
Step 2: Go there

After a few stumbles, we managed to execute our plan. Our maps lacked some of the details that would have made short work of the journey.

Soweto is a bit like the South African Harlem. It is here where close quarters and poverty catalyzed a cultural Renaissance that impacted art, the social construct and ultimately helped empower Mandela  and others to overthrow the apartheid government. We rolled up to a vast yellow brick city square advertised as the central hub. We were surprised though at the apparent lack of activity. It was deserted. In search of a tour guide or accommodations for me, we ducked into a nearby affluent-looking hotel. The prices were prohibitive, but the receptionist knew a local tour guide that would be able to show us around for a couple dollars. Once our tour guide arrived, we were escorted into the shanty towns the surrounded the central square.

We really lucked out by having a tour guide so in tune with the community. He ushered us through an orphanage and to the local water spigot (one of two that serviced the surrounding 10 blocks). We also met several of the local residents who taught us about the nine African nations that live in Soweto each with their own language. We experienced drank some homemade white African beer and shared the warmth of a barrel fire. As Bodds and Kulsum were preparing to go to the airport, I once again needed to address the issue of a place to stay. Our tour guide was able to make a few calls and find space at an elderly woman's guest house on the outskirts of the Shantytown. She prepared dinner and provided a lavish place to stay for a 30 dollar cost that made the hotel from early look ridiculous. It was quite interesting given my swanky accommodations and the proximity to the shantytown though. I thought two or three times about the queen bed I was being provided compared to the orphanage I visited earlier in the day.